8 Marine Hobby Myths That Just Aren't True!

Introduction

Whether one is new to the hobby or has been around for a long time, there will always be stories out there. Some are fully valid and proven time and time again. Others, despite its incomplete truth, seems to somehow persitently remain and proliferate, keeping itself alive through the ages. The retention of these myths rely on its attachment to truths. Unfortunately the attachment makes it absolute in many's minds, and when the time comes that these myths prove wrong, no action is taken. This leads to just endless problems for us, the hobbyists, and the lives that we care for. For the good of all our fish and corals and more, it is time we separate them once and for all.

1. Corals only need light to grow

One of the biggest, and most persistent myth surrounding corals is the requirements for growth. Many will tell you that corals only need light to grow, much like plants.

Well firstly, plants need more than just light to grow. As plants grow, more cells and biological products are created. And unlike in Harry Potter, matter don't just come out of nowhere. So in a closed system like an aquarium, where does all that matter the corals need come from? Well, not from the lights, that's for sure. I'm pretty sure that if you stand in the light, matter don't suddenly appear on your skin. :)

2. Nitrates and phosphates are inherently bad for corals

Yes and no. Context! Context is important. Firstly, no chemical is inherently good or bad. It depends on whether it can be used or if it causes harm, and for/by what.

Do you remember what lives within corals, turning 'light' into usable energy? Zooxanthellae (Symbiodinium). And they are, guess what, symbiotic algae. Yes, algae. To be precise, they are dinoflagellates.

Remember all that algae in your aquarium? Remember why people say 'nitrates and phosphates' are bad? Because algae consumes it. Waitttt, what did we say zooxanthellae was again? Oh right, algae.

Yep, your corals actually do need phosphates and nitrates (and other nutrients) to grow. Surprise, surprise.

3. Nothing measured is nothing existing

Measured 0 for your PANN (phosphates, ammonia, nitrites and nitrates)? Yet seeing algae all over? Well simple. No PANN measured doesn't mean no PANN existing. Reefs are like forests, in that nutrients added can be uptaken very quickly. So even if you overfeed, by the tine you measured for PANN it may have all been consumed by algae and the likes. This is especially true when you already have plenty of algae growing, which is the state most reach before realizing 'oh crap so much algae, better reduce feeding'.

It truly is hard to gauge how much is overfeeding and how much is 'just right'.

Sometimes, it is best to not rely on tests, and rather on the visual signs within your aquarium.

4. Stocking many fish/corals at once is instant death

This is a big myth out there, and it stems from many reasons, none of which is exclusive and justifies this myth.

The biggest reason for the continuance of this myth is that stocking needs to be slow, for your biological filtration system (microbes) to adapt to the increase in bioload. But as I detailed in this blog post here, if your biogical filtration system needs to adapt after each addition (especially the first), you are doing it wrong.

A proper cycle should prepare your aquarium for whatever first addition(s) you make. And once your aquarium is ready, no matter if it is one fish or ten fish (assuming all other factors allow), you will be able to add them all in.

There are many other reasons that people use, such as:

-The longer the aquarium has existed, the more stable it is.

-Compatibility is important.

-Enough territories are required.

-The keeper will be more experienced as time goes on.

And so on.

As can be clearly seen, most of the reasons are exclusive from what they actually purports to support, pertaining more to 'tank readiness' than anything. Like I said above, if your aquarium is ready, then your aquarium is ready.

Think about it. If you have enough territories, then whether you add fish one at a time or multiple at once, that won't change territories.

Same with compatibility. If they are compatible, then regardless, they will be compatible. Adding fish slowly won't somehow make them 'more compatible'. On the contrary, many fish species are highly territorial, and when added together has a better chance of settling territories right off the bat. Adding one by one means that there is a much higher chance that the first additions have taken big territories, leaving newer additions with nothing.

5. A cycle finishes when you see a reduction in AN (ammonia and nitrite) to zero

Oh and nitrate too, sometimes. This is not true, and deserves its own special mention. The cycle, which should be better called the 'bacterial propagation phase' (BPP), only properly completes when you have a healthy population of bacteria.

Think about this way. You can have an aquarium with nothing except saltwater, and you'd measure nothing. Does that mean it is cycled? Hm... (no, it is not).

6. LEDs/T5/MH/etc. is better/worse

The simple truth is be it LEDs, T5s or MHs (and a number of other types of lighting), they can all work, and work well. That doesn't mean that you can just plop any light on a tank and your corals would bloom though.

Remember, it all depends on the actual spectrums, efficiency, and more. If your lighting system (regardless of what type it is) produces the correct lighting for coral growth, then the simple truth is, your corals will grow.

7. Dead rock always leaches phosphates

The theory behind this is that if we leave live rock out, organisms deep in the rock will die and decompose. This will leach out into the aquarium slowly, and basically forever. And because the organisms die so far within, nothing can take advantage of the organics in there.

The truth is very different. We truly underestimate the capabilities if bacteria and other microbes to colonize every surface possible.

If you 're-cycle' the rock properly, all that organics will be (relatively) quickly consumed.

8. You need at least xyz watts of lighting per litre/gallon/whatever

The idea that somehow, growth of corals always require a certain wattage over a certain volume.

This is one of the oddest myths out there, as there are just so many things wrong with it. Firstly, Even if you have a certain amount of wattage over your tank, and it is not in the correct color spectrum, then good luck. See if your corals love all-UV light. :)

Additionally, a single volume can mean many different types of aquariums. A tank that is 3ft long, wide and high has the same volume as one that is 6ft long, 3ft wide and 1.5ft high. But you'd need to consider your lighting very carefully with the 3ft high, as you need the light to be able to punch to the bottom of the tank. Compared to 1.5ft, which is much easily reached.

Additionally, sometimes two tanks of the same width and length, but different heights can use the exact same light as the light would have the ability to cover either heights. So to illuminate one that is say, 1ft high, and one that is 2ft high, there may not need to be an increase in wattage or anything of the likes.

Conclusion

The amount of myths out there is humongous, and these just represent a small proportion. They are though, very commonly dispersed around the community. Next time you see one of them around, think of this post. :)

Any questions, please ask!